01 In a small bowl, stir together the sugar, fish sauce, lime juice and ¼ teaspoon pepper until the sugar dissolves; set aside. In a large bowl, whisk together the potato starch, turmeric and 1 teaspoon each salt and pepper; set aside. Set a wire rack in a rimmed baking sheet.

02 Add 2 quarts oil to a large Dutch oven; it should reach a depth of about 1½ inches. Heat over medium-high to 350°F. Meanwhile, add the chicken wings to the potato starch mixture and toss to coat, pressing so the starch adheres.

03 When the oil has reached 350°F, carefully add one or two wings at a time, shaking off excess starch, until about half are in the pot. Cook, stirring and turning occasionally, until golden brown and crisp, 10 to 13 minutes. Using tongs, transfer the wings as they are done to the prepared rack. Cook the remaining wings in the same way; set aside.

04 In a 12-inch skillet over medium-high, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil until shimmering. Add the garlic, lemon grass, shallots and chilies; cook, stirring often, until lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the fish sauce mixture, bring to a simmer and cook, stirring, until lightly syrupy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the wings and cook, tossing to coat, until glazed and the skillet is dry, 1 to 2 minutes. Off heat, toss in the cilantro, then taste and season with salt and pepper.